Getting pedalling couldn't be easier. All you need is a bike - there's no need for special clothes or expensive equipment.

Read our tips below for buying a bike, or maybe dust off your old one. Get some handy hints too on comfortable clothes.

Buying a bike

It doesn't need to be expensive, fancy, or even fast. It just needs to be the best bike for you.

Types of bike

• Folding bike - great for taking on public transport and if you don't have parking at home or work
• Hybrid bike - more practical than a racing bike but lighter than a mountain bike
• Racing bike - these are light and fast but thin tyres means more punctures
• Mountain bike - robust but a full suspension bike may be too heavy and slow for the road
• Retro bikes - a fashionable way to get around London

Cost

How much you spend is up to you. You don't need to buy an expensive bike to cycle around London.

Buying secondhand - this is the cheaper option, but be careful not to buy a stolen bike.

Further advice

Specialist bike shops are your best bet in your search for your perfect bike. Find a list of bike shops and places to buy second hand bikes from the London Cycling Campaign website.

Children's bikes

A child's bike is more than a toy. It must be easy - and fun - to ride. Look for a good quality, durable frame that fits your child. Your local bike shop can help you chose the right bike for your child or, you could look for a good second hand bike.

Options for younger children include front or rear mounted bike seats, trailers, Dutch-style cargo bikes, Tag-A-Long bikes or tow bar to convert a child's bike into a trailer bike which can then be detached at the park.

Dusting off your old bike

If you have an old bike, it may just need some TLC and a bit of an MOT - why not read our bicycle tune-up tips?

Avoiding theft

Once you're kitted up, you'll want to keep your bike safe. Read our tips on avoiding theft.

Get comfortable on your bike

Make sure your bike is the right size and that the seat is not too low or it will slow you down. Riding the wrong size bike is often uncomfortable and may be unsafe. Ask a specialist bike shop for advice.

Clothes

Normal clothes are fine for cycling. You won't get hot and sweaty if you don't ride like a demon, so you can even ride to work in a suit.

You don't need to wear lycra from head to toe, but lightly padded bike shorts can keep you comfortable. You can wear other clothes - even a skirt - over the top.

Bright, reflective clothing or strips will make you easier to see, especially at night.

Gloves

Wearing gloves is an easy way to keep cycling comfy. We recommend fingerless gloves for summer and wind-resistant for winter.

Helmet

It's not the law to wear a helmet but many Londoners choose to do so. If you wear a helmet, make sure it fits properly - tighten the straps so you can't push the helmet up your forehead, side to side, or up at the back.

Bell

A bell is a great way of letting people know you're there, especially when you're in a park or around people who are walking.

Different rides will require different nutritional support plans. In addition to differing Caloric requirements and recommendations, there are some specific do's and don'ts. This section will look at the 6 common types of rides and make recommendations on the 4 diet periods for each ride.

THE COMMUTE or SOCIAL RIDE

This ride is done at a comfortable pace of 50-60% VO2 max. for 1 to 2 hours daily. The goal is to have a comfortable ride with energy left for the remainder of the day.

• 4 days prior - balanced diet with 60-70% Calories from carbohydrates
• 4 hours prior - eat a high carbohydrate breakfast 30 to 45 minutes before the ride
• 4 minutes before - nothing special
• during the ride - eating is optional for a ride of 2 hours or less
• post ride - a mid morning snack might be a good idea but is not essential; a good balanced diet will replace the glycogen used during the ride
• fluids - one water bottle per hour, perhaps a bit more in hot weather

BASIC TRAINING RIDE

This ride is just a bit longer than the 2 hour limit that can lead to the bonk, so snacking on the bike is important. As intensity increases above 60%, it is more important to avoid eating in the 4 hour pre-ride interval to avoid GI distress.

• 4 days prior - balanced diet with 60-70% Calories from carbohydrates; at least 600 grams of carbohydrate the day prior to the ride
• 4 hours prior - if the intensity is moderate, eating during this interval is OK; avoid excessively fatty foods and try to eat 2 hours before the ride
• 4 minutes prior - nothing special
• during the ride - start eating regular snacks, energy gels, or sports drinks at the beginning of the ride to replace the estimated calories burned per hour
• post ride - a post ride carbohydrate snack, particularly in the 10 to 15 minutes immediately afterwards, will take advantage of the window of maximum glycogen resynthesis and may cut down on muscle soreness
• fluids - one water bottle per hour, perhaps a bit more in hot weather

INTERVALS

For intervals, it is key to have your stomach empty or you risk the GI distress that goes with exercising close to or above 100% VO2 max. You will also sweat more so that fluid replacement needs to be watched. If this is a ride of less than 1 1/2 to 2 hours, there is probably not a need to carbo supplement during the ride.

• 4 days prior - balanced diet with 60-70% Calories from carbohydrates
• 4 hours prior - don't eat in the 4 hours before this training ride
• 4 minutes prior - nothing special, a candy bar or energy bar is OK if you're feeling hungry
• during the ride - depends on the total time/distance to be covered. If it's truly focused on intervals, no carbos are needed
• post ride - a post ride carbohydrate snack, particularly in the 10 to 15 minutes immediately afterwards, will take advantage of the window for maximum glycogen resynthesis and may cut down on muscle soreness
• fluids - one water bottle per hour as an absolute minimum

LONG DISTANCE

This ride will definitely cause you to bonk if you don't replace carbohydrates, so snacking on the bike is essential. As intensity increases above 60% VO2 max., it becomes more important to avoid eating in the 4 hour pre-ride interval to avoid GI distress. If this is really planned as a slow, long training ride, that is not as important. A 300 gram carbohydrate meal 3 to 4 hours before this ride helps "top off the tank" so to speak in terms of muscle glycogen stores.

• 4 days prior - balanced diet with 70-80 % Calories from carbohydrates; at least 600 grams per day of carbohydrates in the 2 to 3 days prior to the ride
• 4 hours prior - if the intensity is moderate, eating during this interval is OK, but avoid fatty foods and eat at least 2 hours before the ride. A 300 gram carbohydrate meal 3 to 4 hour pre-ride is recommended if possible
• 4 minutes prior - nothing special
• during the ride - regular snacks, energy gels, or sports drinks to replace the estimated calories burned per hour
• post ride - a post ride carbohydrate snack, particularly in the 10 to 15 minutes immediately afterwards, will take advantage of the window for maximum glycogen resynthesis and may cut down on muscle soreness. Eat a high carbohydrate meal that night after the ride. fluids - one water bottle per hour, perhaps a bit more in hot weather

COMPETITIVE EVENT

This is what it's all about, and good nutrition and planning your eating strategy can make a difference. You will need a good carbohydrate base to maximize your muscle glycogen reserves. And you need to avoid eating in the 4 hour pre-event interval to keep your stomach empty or you risk the GI distress that goes with exercising close to or above 100% VO2 max. You will also sweat more so fluid replacement needs to be watched. If this is a ride of less than 1 1/2 to 2 hours, there is no need to carbo supplement during the ride.

• 4 days prior - balanced diet with 60-70% Calories from carbohydrates; 600 grams of carbohydrate per day in the three days prior to the event
• 4 hours prior - don't eat in the 4 hours before this ride
• 4 minutes priorr - a candy bar, energy bar, or other carbohydrate snack is a good idea
• during the ride - even for an event of 1 1/2 hours or less, a liquid carbohydrate supplement should be used. And if it's going to be longer, you will definitely need carbohydrate supplements (beginning regular snacks, energy gels, or sports drinks as soon as the event starts to replace the estimated calories burned per hour
• post ride - a post ride carbohydrate snack, particularly in the 10 to 15 minutes immediately afterwards, will take advantage of the window for maximum glycogen resynthesis and may cut down on muscle soreness. Eat a high carbohydrate meal that night to replace the muscle glycogen that was probably completely depleted during the event.
• fluids - one water bottle per hour as an absolute minimum

MULTI-DAY RIDE or BIKE TOUR

This ride is basically the same as the long training ride, but you need to be very careful to eat a high carbohydrate meal each evening or you will slowly become glycogen depleted and chronic fatigue will develop. If this is going to be a high intensity event on certain days, (intensity above 60% VO2 max.), it is important to avoid eating in the 4 hour pre-ride interval to avoid GI distress. But on those long slow days, that's not an issue. A 300 gram carbohydrate meal each day 3 to 4 hours before the ride will maximize glycogen reserves. This is the dietary program most appropriate for a multi-day bike tour.

• 4 days prior - balanced diet with 60-70% Calories from carbohydrates; at least 600 grams per day of carbohydrates in the 2 to 3 days prior to the ride
• 4 hours prior - if the intensity is moderate, eating during this interval is OK, but avoid fatty foods and eat 2 hours before the ride. A 300 gram carbohydrate meal 3 to 4 hour pre ride is recommended.
• 4 minutes prior - nothing special
• during the ride - regular snacks, energy gels, or sports drinks to replace the estimated calories burned per hour
• post ride - a post ride carbohydrate snack, particularly in the 10 to 15 minutes immediately afterwards, will take advantage of the window for maximum glycogen resynthesis and may cut down on muscle soreness. Eat a high carbohydrate meal that night after the ride, and try to eat at least 600 grams of carbohydrate per day above and beyond that needed to replace the Calories burned on that day's ride.
• fluids - one water bottle per hour, perhaps a bit more in hot weather

A few additional tips for those trips that will have long back-to-back days on the bike.

• Train with long back-to-back rides. You can train for a single century by riding long once a week because the event calls for just one day of exertion -- and then you can rest. But to build the stamina for a week (or two) of daily rides you should train with several long, back to back, rides.
• Replace those Calories in training. When you're maxing those training miles, you need to replace the Calories you are burning (and fluids too) to keep muscle glycogen stores intact. If you skimp, you run the risk of increasing your level of fatigue.
• Respect your contact points. Keep your hands, feet and saddle area happy. Pain in any of those areas can ruin a good adventure. Think twice about using new gear.
• Beware of overtraining. It's tempting to put in big miles to prepare for the week. Going too fast (and often) has its own set of risks. Train smart.

Each year, several thousand bicycles are stolen in the region - and few result in even a token police investigation. Wherever you decide to lock your bike, make sure it’s safe for the bike and safe for everyone else as well. For example, don’t chain your bike in a place where it will block pedestrian’s paths. Here are a few other points to remember:

• Always use a strong bike lock. Preferably some sort of U-lock. You may also want to use more than one lock, such as a cable in addition to your U-lock. Redundancy is effective at deterring thieves, who may have the tools to defeat one type of lock, but not several types of lock.
• Remove any accessories. Don’t forget to take any accessories or easily removable parts with you when you leave the bike. These not only make your bike look more attractive, but usually cost a fair bit & are easily stolen.
• Record your bike's serial number. Every bike has a unique serial number, usually stamped on the frame below the bottom bracket. Record this number in a safe place. If your bike is stolen, report it so that law enforcement agencies could possibly recover your bike.
• Uglify your bike. Make your bike as undesirable as possible. Some cyclists remove brand name decals or repaint the bike to disguise a top-of-the-line model as a piece of junk. Many bicyclists also put decals on their bike, both to express a message ("One Less Car", "I Bike & I Vote" or "What Gas Prices?") and to discourage easy re-sale in the event of theft.
• Use a "beater bike". Leave your expensive titanium or carbon fiber bike at home, commute on a less expensive model. Many bicycle commuters ride "urban beater bikes" that are less appealing to thieves.
• Make it unrideable. Many cyclists remove wheels and saddles to make it impossible for thieves to ride away on a bike. Even thieves who load bikes onto trucks may avoid those with missing parts; they don’t want the hassle of finding spare parts when they can simply steal another bike without missing pieces.
• Register your bike. Many communities offer bicycle registration through the local police department or other agency. Many states or communities also offer or require a bicycle license, which includes an adhesive label. There is also an anti-theft organization, the National Bike Registry, which also provides tamper-proof adhesive label. These discourage thieves, who move on to unregistered bicycles that are more difficult to trace to the original owner.
• Identify your bike. Many bicyclists use permanent markers to personalize their bikes, making them less appealing to bike thieves.
• Report stolen bikes. Most times, police can’t do anything to help you find a stolen bike, especially when it is unregistered. It may be either impossible to find the thief or too time consuming at a busy precinct. However, a large number of stolen bikes are eventually recovered, so it’s worthwhile to report a theft just in case.

Never buy a stolen bike. Without a thriving market for stolen bikes, the huge problem of bike theft would not exist. Besides, you may be held partly responsible for a theft if you buy a stolen bike. To avoid stolen bikes, only buy from reputable bike shops. If someone offers you a great deal on a used bike, ask to see a receipt or registration. Without either of these, it’s impossible to be sure the bike wasn't stolen at some point.

The Safe Turn Indicator can be purchased online and shipped anywhere in the world.  Payment is secure & easy via PayPal, Google Checkout or credit/debit card.

We also have distribution channels in several countries. To find out where the Safe Turn Indicator is available for purchase in your area please see below:

United Kingdom

Safe Turn UK
W: www.safe-turn.co.uk
E:  info@safe-turn.co.uk

Cycle Logic
W: www.cycle-logic.co.uk
E:  contact@cycle-logic.co.uk

WiZZBiKE
W: www.wizzbike.com
E:  john@wizzbike.com

Buy Buy Bicycles
W: www.buybuybicycles.co.uk
E:  sales@buybuybicycles.com

Crazy Horse Bike Workshop
W: www.crazyhorsebikeworkshop.co.uk
E:  enquiries@crazyhorsebikeworkshop.co.uk

Global Esprit
A: 525 Garratt Lane, Earlsfield, London SW18 4SR
T: 020 8946 2352

Australia

Safe Turn Australia
W: www.safeturn.co.uk
E:  info@safeturn.com

Taiwan

AEDIMORE CO., LTD
W: www.aedimore.com.tw
E:  service@aedimore.com.tw

France

LeCyclo.com
W: www.lecyclo.com
E:  od@lecyclo.com

United States

Mango International Inc.
W: www.mangointernational.biz
E:  info@groupmango.com

Israel

Pisga Engineering Ltd
T: +972 54 467 5097
E:  eitans@sgw.co.il

Japan

BFS Inc.
T: 047 468 3781
E:  bfs@mti.biglobe.ne.jp

Londoners of all ages are being challenged by the Mayor to get pedalling through a series of London 'cycle challenges', where workplaces and schools can compete based on the number of miles clocked up and the number of people they get cycling.

New figures released today show a bicycle boom is underway with an estimated 545,000 daily bicycle journeys now made in London, up nine per cent in the year since the Mayor was elected. Speaking at the launch, the Mayor said he was determined to reach beyond dedicated commuter cyclists and encourage more Londoners to join in.

A record £111m investment in cycling is being made this year, which includes funding for new Cycle Hire and Cycle Highways schemes and safety training across London.

The Mayor also unveiled a major new marketing campaign 'Catch up with the bicycle', which shows the freedom of cycling and how, as in other European countries, cycling can be a stylish and desirable way to travel. 

The Mayor said:

Cycling is on the up in London, but there is still much to do if we want to really revolutionise the way that Londoners get about.

'That's why we are making record investments in cycling, developing the cycle highways and cycle hire schemes, and are unveiling a summer schedule stuffed full of biking events, competitions, and campaigns designed to boost cycling across London's boroughs.

'Through this, Londoners of all ages and abilities can take part and experience the joys of travelling in one of the most handy, healthy, and environmentally friendly ways possible, and we can achieve our aim of making London a city where two wheeled, pedal-powered transportation is the norm, and not the exception.

With London's cycle revolution gaining pace and thousands of potential cyclists set to join you on the streets of the capital; I am writing to draw your attention to plans that the Mayor, in his capacity as Chairman of Transport for London, has drawn up to ensure the continued safety of you and your fellow cyclists.

Download the draft Cycle Safety Action Plan (927KB)

I hope you will be able to spare some time to read through what TFL believe is a further important step in their plan to make taking to two wheels in the capital as safe as possible.

The new plan highlights the need for action in London by:

• Promoting the cycling safety message to all road users.
• Delivering new, safe cycle routes and facilities - such as the new Cycle Superhighways routes and the central London Cycle Hire scheme with its 6,000 bikes.
• Providing confidence boosting training for cyclists, and other road users - £3 million has been invested in cycle training this year.
• Encouraging HGV operators in London to take cycling safety seriously - including engaging with 7,000 London companies and encouraging them to join TfL's Freight Operators Recognition Scheme.
• Working with over 300 freight companies which operate construction vehicles - they will be encouraged to install side-bars or other safety devices on HGVs which are currently exempt.
• Calling for improved HGV safety - by reviewing the current exemption for some construction vehicles to have side-bars and requiring cycle safety awareness as a mandatory part of HGV drivers 'Certificate of Professional Competence' (CPC) periodic training requirement.
• Championing the need to allow trials of innovative safety measures - such as Trixi mirrors in London to examine their potential benefits for cycling safety.
• Creating a Cycle Safety Working Group of key road user and cycling organisations.
• Arranging 'Exchanging Places' HGV/Cycle events similar to those we organised to mark the launch of this plan - with more to follow in November and coming months - giving London's cyclists the opportunity to learn about riding safely near HGVs.
• Using the latest research into collisions involving cyclists - to ensure the efforts of TfL and other partners are focused where they will make greatest difference.

Be alert

• be aware of everything going on around you
• watch out for pedestrians stepping off the kerb
• watch out for vehicles pulling into the kerb or turning left
• look up and around, rather than just in front of your bike
• practice looking behind without wobbling or swerving
• watch out for vehicles coming out of side streets - they may not see you

Watch your position on the road

• ride further out, away from the kerb. You'll be more obvious and easier to avoid
• allow at least a full door width's space between you and parked cars - and watch for open doors
• if the road is too narrow for a vehicle to pass you then it may be safest to ride in middle of the road

Wait ahead at lights

• wait in front of other vehicles when you're at traffic lights
• make sure you are well in front of large vehicles such as HGVs and are not waiting on the left - make eye contact so they know you are there. If you can't get to the front safely, wait behind the vehicle

Be seen and be safe

• a bright jacket or rucksack can make you easier to see
• by law, after dark you must have white lights at the front and red lights at back of your bicycle
• put reflective strips on your rucksack, panniers, jacket or wrist bands for better visibility at night
• it is not the law to wear a helmet but many Londoners choose to - if you wear a helmet, make sure it fits - tighten the straps so that you can't push the helmet up your forehead, side to side or up at the back
• try Safe Turn for your indications

Make eye contact

• make eye contact with drivers to ensure they know you're there - it will make them give you the space on the road that you deserve

Ride confidently

• know where you should be on the road and stick to your guns
• in heavy traffic go at the same speed as other vehicles
• look out for drivers trying to move onto the road you're on
• be assertive, not aggressive

Health

The positive consequences of biking as a healthy mode of transportation, or as a purely recreational activity, span across many aspects of our lives. They can be expressed in terms of the health of the environment (and resulting health of all living things), as well as the health of individuals who are more physically active. A transportation system that is conducive to bicycling can reap many benefits in terms of reduced traffic congestion and improved quality of life.

Economy

Economic rewards both to the individual and to society are also realized through reduced health care costs and reduced dependency on auto ownership (and the resulting insurance and maintenance costs). There are also other economic benefits of bicycling that are more difficult to measure, such as the increased economic vitality of communities that have emphasized bicycle mobility. Finally, bike-able communities create a more equitable society that provides transportation choice for all citizens.

Want your bike to go faster? Ride easier? Shift smoother? Improvements in these areas are often relatively easy to accomplish with just a few simple steps. Try out these simple tune-up tasks below, which don't require any special knowledge or tools, and see immediate improvements in your riding.

1. Clean and lubricate your chain

The chain and sprockets on your bike play a key part in the transfer of power in your legs to your wheels, making them go round and round. When they collect dirt and grit and get gummy, not only does it slow you down, but they also wear out faster. Keeping your chain clean and lubricated is one of the best ways to keep your bike working well. This is not a daily or weekly task by any means. Plan on doing this every thousand miles or so; more often if you ride in dusty or dirty conditions.

Tip: Use a lightweight oil specially designed for bikes. Stay away from motor oil as it is too heavy and will quickly attract dirt and crud. Want a big greasy chain ring mark on your leg? Using too much oil or the wrong kind is a guaranteed way to get one. Light lubrication is the key, and wipe off excess at the end.

2. Lubricate the moving parts of your brakes and derailleurs.

Your bike has quite a few moving metal parts that are vulnerable to dirt and moisture. To keep your bike happy and functioning well, these parts should be lubricated regularly.

Pivot points on the brakes and derailleurs are good examples of the types of places you should target because they are vulnerable to attracting dirt and grit due to their placement on your bike. You can spot many of these places just by watching your bike in action and seeing where metal parts move against and around each other.

For instance, think about your brakes. On most road bikes, they are mounted on a bolt on the frame above your wheel. When you squeeze the lever, the brake pivots around this bolt as it contracts. It's these places where you want to apply a couple drops of oil.

3. Inspect your brake pads.

A quick check of your brake pads will often reveal potential problems that are easy to fix. You want to check:

• Are your brake pads properly aligned?Brake pads are the little rubber things that clamp down on your rims to slow you when you squeeze the brake levers. Make sure they are hitting the rims evenly, and aren't either rubbing the tire or missing your rim partially or completely.
• Are the brake pads toed-in?The bike brake pads should also be "toed-in," which means the leading edge of the pads should touch the bike rim first when you lightly apply the brakes. The pads squish a little, and when you squeeze down hard, you should get full contact to the rim. This helps prevent squeaking
• Check for junk embedded in the brake padsInspect the surface of the brake pads where they meet the rims, and using a pointy sharp instrument like a knife, pick out any bits of sand or metal that may have become embedded in the pad. Removing this grit prevents the pads from wearing and scratching your rims and helps them provide more even and consistent stopping power.

4. Check the pressure on your tires.

One of the simplest things you can do is the one that can have the greatest effect, and that surprisingly, people most often overlook.

Paying attention to keeping the proper level of air pressure in your tires accomplishes many things:

• Makes pedaling easier
• Protects your rims from damage
• Prolongs the life of your tires
• Makes it much less likely that you'll get flats.

Checking for proper air pressue in your tires before every ride is quick and easy to do.

I have been commuting on London roads for almost 18 months now on a 25km round trip, so I have quite a lot of experience of cycling on busy roads.  It is undeniable that commuting in the autumn and winter months when there is less light, poses more threats.  I have always cycled with a powerful front and rear light, and also use a luminous yellow ‘Hump’ backpack cover with incorporated lights to make myself as visible as possible.

It was when I was cycling back from work one dark evening and I needed to turn off the main road, that I had the idea for an indicator that could be worn on the wrist, that would improve my visibility as I raised my hand to indicate a turn.  The problem was, when raising my arm to indicate a turn, I was raising my arm away from my well illuminated body and thrusting it into the darkness.  Not only were motorists unlikely to see it if they weren’t paying particular attention, I was risking having my arm knocked off by any overtaking motorcyclists!

The Safe Turn Indicator solves these problems.  Its rapid bright flashes will ensure that other road users are aware that you are planning to turn ahead, and since it is fully automatic, all you have to do is indicate as normal....problem solved!